Photos from the “Attakulla’ Recording Session

All Photos Courtesy of Greg Osborne

580520_547338421964461_1430998193_n 601280_547338391964464_1829003954_n

600296_547338398631130_214351802_n 733778_547338381964465_1575498094_n

62747_547338355297801_787335396_n 156050_547338361964467_913806460_n

625594_547338341964469_2056538004_n 582381_547338318631138_150180133_n

71917_547338321964471_1697549346_n 301504_547338311964472_2085790601_n

Advertisements

DIY Sound Proof Panels (Step-by-Step)

I have long said that you can always save money in any project/home studio by building what would normally be expensive things like desks, etc. yourself. Sound proofing panels are no exception.

The first thing that you want to think about is the size of the panel you are wanting to make. I chose 4′ x 2′ just to make the measurements simple. I started by buying an 8′ 1″ x 2″ board. (the better the quality wood, the easier and more solid the panel will be). I cut the board in to (2) 4′ sections and (2) 2′ sections.

IMG_9134

I attached the sections with the 4′ pieces on the outside and with 2 wood screws on each and to keep the boards from twisting.

IMG_9135

IMG_9137 IMG_9136

Then once I have my outside frame, I grabbed the cheap mattress foam and cut it to size. You want the foam to sit right in side the frame snugly.

IMG_9138 IMG_9140

From this point you will want to attach a cross bar to make sure that the foam stays in place once your panel is complete. Again use a 2′ section for this.

IMG_9143

Once this is done, you can now start covering your panel. I chose to cover mine with some inexpensive velvet. But you can choose any material you want as long as it is easily stretchable. This will help when attaching the material to the frame in the next step.

The first thing you want to do is lay your panel out on the material and cut it to size. (you will want to leave more than you think on the edges, if you have too much you can always trim it off later… too little and you have just wasted a piece of material)

IMG_9236 IMG_9237

Now it’s time to put the foam in to the frame. You will want the outside (the side facing the material) to be the smooth side. If you don’t do it correctly, the ripples in the foam will appear on your panel. Lay the panel down and place the foam inside. (be sure that your center piece is towards the back) With the foam in the frame, it should be flat all the way across when the panel is laying flat.

IMG_9240 IMG_9241

For good measure, I stapled the foam to the center support just to make sure it would stay put. Once you are done with that, the panel should look like the second picture below. Now you are ready to start “wrapping” your panel in velvet (or whatever material you choose)

IMG_9242 IMG_9243

I started by doing the sides first. I pulled the material and checked everything twice before stapling just to make sure the material was enough to cover the entire panel. Start with one side first, making sure that you stretch the material tight as you go down the edge. Once that side is done, repeat these steps for the other side. As I mentioned before, if the material is to long, just trim it off “after” stapling.

IMG_9245 IMG_9246

IMG_9247 IMG_9248

Once that is complete, you will want to start working on the two ends. Now, what I did was every once in while I would turn the panel over to make sure that there weren’t any ripples or creases, and that everything looked smooth. This will save you from having to go back later and remove staples, etc. I paid special attention to the corners to make sure that they didn’t look funny from the front. I wanted everything to look as smooth and clean as possible once hanging on the wall.

IMG_9249 IMG_9250

IMG_9252 IMG_9253

Well, you are almost done with your panel! The only thing left to do now is figure out a way to hang it. I decided to just go with the average “picture hanger” as I wanted to minimize the amount of holes, etc. in the wall of my studio. But you are welcome to use whatever means necessary to hang your panel.

IMG_9254 IMG_9255

Well the only thing left to do is place the panel on the wall and see how it looks!

photo1 photo2

Thanks for reading!

DIY Studio Monitor Stands

The best way to save money in any home/commercial recording studio is to do as many things that you can yourself. In my case, I had the building professionally built and finished, then I went to work making all my own panels, console, and now Monitor Stands.

Day 1)

As always, went to Home Depot and bought (2) 8 foot  2′ x 4’s and (1) 24″ x 48″ 3/4 MDF Panel. Cost all together was about $20.

photo 1 photo 2

I started out by measuring and cutting the panel in to (4) 12″ sections. These will serve as the top and bottom of the stands.

photo 3 photo 4

photo 1 photo 2

Next I measured for the height of the stands and cut the 2 x 4’s accordingly. Your height will most likely be different, so I won’t bother to post my measurements.

photo 3 photo 4

It is time to attach the (2) 2 x 4’s together using wood screws. Always drill pilot holes about 3/4 of the length of the actual screw, this will guarantee a nice straight attachment.

photo 9 photo 10

photo 11 photo 12

photo 13 photo 14

photo 15 photo 16

Once securely attached at both ends and in the middle with screws, i drilled a center hole in both the stands and the ends. This will help with correct placement of the top and bottom pieces.

photo 6 photo 7

Then I used one screw to attach the ends to the stands. I will add more screws later, this is just to hold them together for now.

photo 8 photo 17

photo 18 photo 19

Once I was happy with the stands it was time to “finish” them. I used the leftover material from my DIY Studio Console armrest to cover the 2 x 4’s.

photo 20 photo 21

One other tip, I used a Sharpie to color in the staples, though they will be in the back, it just made the stands look a little better.

photo 23 photo 24

It was time to attach the ends to the covered stand. They are really staring to look nice!

photo 28 photo 29

Day 2)

It is day 2 and time for paint. I used the leftover paint from my recent DIY Studio Console project to paint the top and bottom of the stands so they would match. Once painted, I added (4) rubber feet to the bottom to help keep them from sliding and to keep a nice soundproofing distance from the floor.

photo 36photo 37

I let them dry over night and I have to say, they match the look of the console perfectly, don’t you agree?

photo 4

For more information about the DIY Studio Console please Click Here!

Thanks for Reading!

My DIY Studio Console (Finished)

I too, along with every other producer/studio engineer in the world, long for my very own studio console with all of my gear tightly tucked inside as if it was made especially for me like the one above. But, reality once again takes over. I did some research online and found out that these custom-made consoles do in fact exist and are available just for my recording mixer/control that I use. Now, the part that I didn’t like was the price tag. For example, here is the Argosy Console that is made specifically for my Tascam FW-1884 console.

http://www.argosyconsole.com/argosy_tascamfw1884.html

If you are so inclined to follow the link to the end of the purchase page you will notice that this console, though perfect for my situation costs roughly $1800.00 (US). That is just not doable for my new studio. So, I decided to build one like it myself.

And away we go!

The Beginning)

Always make sure that you have an idea of what you want to build prior to building it. I spent about 2 weeks drawing pictures of all my ideas so i could eventually pick the best one to build.

Here is a few pictures of my first drawings of the console with approx. measurements, etc.

These are just crude drawings of what the final one will look like, but in the end I have the idea of what I am going to build. And that is what’s important.

Day 1)

Now comes the “real” part of the build. I had to decide what material to make the console out of and what size to make the desktop. I decided on 3/4″ MDF because it is easy to work with and doesn’t cost a ton of money. (Approx. $30 a 4′ x 8′ sheet from Home Depot) I then double measured and double checked my measurements using my Tascam Mixer and a plastic folding table. I went to the store and picked up one sheet of MDF and had them cut it to size for my flat surface of my desk.

Here is what the finished piece looked like with my mixer on top. I used a 2×4 for spacing for my arm rest that I will make later.

Once I was sure that my measurements were correct again (measure twice, cut once) I proceeded to start building the pieces that would surround the mixer and provide the angle for the first section of the desk.

I cut 4 identical pieces so that the angle of the desk would be straight.

From this point, the shape and contour of the desk starts to come to life. I could almost picture in my head exactly what it was going to look like.

Next, I measured the 4 pieces that would make up the top (rack) portion of the console. Again, these are identical pieces. The angle is based on the 4U rack Space rails that I have.

I placed the 4 pieces of the rack on the desk and placed the top piece on to see what it would look like and to make sure I have everything measured right. I used the level just to make sure that it was at least mostly level : )  Remember, I am not going for complete perfection here.

At this point in the build I wanted to see what it would look like with my rack gear in it so i sat one of my compressors on a few 2×4’s to see what it would look like. Not bad!

It was time to start filling in the spaces on either side of the mixer and in the middle above the mixer. I made this whole thing easily changeable just in case I were to ever get another mixer, that way I wouldn’t have to re-build the entire desk. (the pieces on top f the desk are just adding weight since the desk isn’t screwed together yet)

After once again making sure that everything fit together correctly, I started by screwing the sections on either side of the mixer together. Once that was complete, I measured the top to make sure that I would trim the exact right amount off. The second picture below is after the top was trimmed and screwed in to place. (I want to mention to at this point that I have not attached any of these pieces to the bottom piece of wood. This will probably only be done during the final assembly process)

Day 2)

I started the day by figuring out how I wanted to mount the 4U Rack rails. I had thought about making them straight up and down as well as angled with the desk. After mocking them up I decided on the angle for looks. Here is the 4U rack with some gear in it.

After installing the other side racks, it was time to start sanding this thing to make is smooth. I really have no idea what sand paper to use so I bought a multi-pack that has a few different types. I started by sanding all the square edges to make them slightly rounded and smooth to the touch. Then I worked on all the big surfaces and edges.

You can see the difference already that the sanding has made. It just gives everything a finished look. Plus, it covers some of the slight cutting mistakes I had made. Hey, No one is perfect. That is why there is sanding and painting!

Here is what it looks like after sanding. Notice how smooth the finish looks now.

Here is what it looks like with the console mixer in place.

Day 3)

I decided to cut the table top to match the size of the top and mixer sections. I was going to leave it longer and use it for storage, etc. but after looking at it all together, the decision was easily made to trim it up.

Day 4)

It is time to make the armrest. My first idea was to use a 2 x 4 for the base of it (it would be the right height and make the front of the desk that much more sturdy and then use thick foam on top of that to make it more like an actual armrest. Then I would wrap the entire thing in vinyl to finish the look.

I bought the foam at the fabric store cheap and cut it in to pieces (it is hard to cut straight) and laid them out on the 2 x 4.

After wrapping it with the vinyl (sorry no pic) i decided that the foam just wasn’t looking right under the armrest. So, I just joined together (2) 2 x 4’s and ironically got the exact height I was looking for and all of the sturdiness that I was wanting. And once wrapped, looks even better than the foam version.

Before I finished the armrest, there is one other thing that had been making me not happy with the design. It was the fact that you could see the screws on the side. So I decided to make some trim pieces that would cover the sides and the edges of the armrest. I mocked up the wrapped armrest to get the right angle, length etc.

Here is a “Before” and “After” of the console with the trim piece. Huge difference!

Once I was sure the trim pieces were correct, it was time to finish the armrest. I started by screwing the 2 boards together and wrapping it tightly in the black vinyl. I used way more staples than I should have, but trust me… it isn’t going to come off!

Here is the armrest sitting on the console with the finished trim pieces. I really don’t like that the foam didn’t work out as the armrest because with just the wood it is not very soft, but… it does have the exact look I was going for… So what the hell, right?

Here is the console with everything put together. I added the Rack Units on one side so that you could see how it was going to look in the end.

Day 5)

A good console is nothing without a base. So today, it is time to build it! I made my measurements based on the top. I didn’t want it to be exactly the same size (I wanted a little bit of the top to hang over) so I made it 1″ shorter on the back and sides. I also made another section for the G5 tower. I made this one a little shorter than the others because I ran out of wood and didn’t want to buy another sheet just to use one piece. I had a 12″ shelf lying around so I used it for the mockup to get the spacing right.

Before screwing everything together I wanted to get an idea of what it would all look like so I set the top rack and mixer/armrest portion on the desk to get the full view and make sure it was what I wanted.

Once I had everything together I decided that it looked great and it was time to start putting it all together for real. I took everything off the top and used a 2 x 4 to brace the pieces together. One thing I made sure of is that the 2 x 4 didn’t go towards the front enough to hit your legs on it when you sat at the desk. I also have plans of adding a keyboard shelf later on, so leave room for that as well. I also added 2 x 4’s under the shelf so that the shelf is off the floor by a few inches.

When I was done for the day, I put everything together to see what the “almost” finished console will look like. I Love It.

Day 6)

The Console is finished! it is time to start priming it for paint! I tried a few different methods for finishing and came up with a good one that works well. Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Primer with Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover “Semi-Gloss” Black Latex Paint. Its not perfect, but provides a nice finish.

The important part when disassembling the desk is to label everything and I also put all of the screws, etc. that i took off the desk in a bag so everything is ready to go once I get the desk done and I am ready to assemble.

photo 1

First, I started with the Rack area. I did this because it had a lot of areas to paint and I wanted to do at least 3 coats. So why not start with the largest piece first?

photo 3 photo 2

Then after making sure that all the nooks and crannies were primed, I moved on to the smaller pieces.

photo 5 photo 4

photo 1 photo 2

You will notice in the pictures that I didn’t primer the entire surface area of every piece. The reason for this (besides laziness) is that most of the pieces with be hidden within the console once it is assembled. So why paint the pieces no one is ever gonna see, Right?

While the primer was drying on the desktop pieces, I decided to head back to the base of the console to do a little more work on it. One thing I wanted to do was to cut out a section in the back of the shelf area where the tower will go. One, so that I can pass the cables through it and another because those G5 Towers get really really hot if they are restricted of air, so the more air flow to the tower the better.

photo 3 photo 4

Day 7)

After letting the primer dry overnight it was time to apply the first coat of black paint. I made sure to make even strokes with the roller and I didn’t try to make it perfect the first round, I will probably end up doing 2 or 3 coats, so no hurry

photo 3 photo 4

photo 1 photo 2

photo 3 photo 4

Day 8)

It was time to finish the 2nd and 3rd coat of paint. It was also time to start painting the base of the desk. Up to this point, everything I have done has been on the top. I didn’t spend as much time on the underside of the desk as it will mostly be hidden from view, I just wanted it to be completely covered with the paint.

photo 1 photo 2

I made sure to make nice even coats on all the pieces that will be visible on the desk. Below are the trim pieces and the shelf for the tower.

photo 3 photo 4

Day 9)

Today is the day that I put the console back together to make sure that all the painted pieces look good and there aren’t any obvious spots that I missed. Below you can see the full mockup of the desk. The table top of the desk has yet to be painted at this point because I want to see how much of it I need to actually paint since 90% is covered.

photo 1 photo 2

photo 4 photo 3

Once I had everything fit and made sure that it was the way I wanted it, it was time to start painting the last but most crucial piece of the desk. The top. I fit the top to the base and started by painting the underside and edges first and let them dry. Then, I applied at least 2 coats to the top edges painting about a 4″ line all the way around to cover any parts that may show in the final assembly. You can also now see the keyboard shelf.

photo 1 photo 2

photo 4 photo 3

Day 10)

Well, Its Move In Day at the studio. I started with the base and did the final assembly from there. I will be posting more and more as it progresses as it will probably take me about 6 months to actually get everything up and going in the studio.

Here are the final  pics of my post for you. In the first 2 you can see the console going together nicely in its new home.

photo 1 photo 2

In the final 2 pictures you can see the completed console without then with all the studio goodies.

photo 3photo 4

photo

Please feel free to leave comments as I would love to hear from you guys on what you think!

Thanks for sharing this short journey with me and please check back often for updates!

THE BRAND NEW STUDIO: (Finished Soon!)

Like every other musician in the world who is in to recording music, I have always wanted my own studio. Now don’t get me wrong, I have had some really nice “Home Studios” before but this time (thanks to my awesome wife) my lifelong dream of owning/building/running my own professional recording studio is becoming a reality.

The Studio design was done completely by me using online CAD software and I think the end result will be just perfect for the type of work that I am currently doing. I will spend the next 5 or 6 weeks updating this post with pictures, how-to’s etc. so please check back often.
Let’s begin with the drawing of the studio. As you can see, the whole building is 24′ x 18′. Reason for this size is due to the available space and budget. It will be plenty big enough I’m sure. The Control Room is 13’x11′ with an adjoining Isolation Booth that is 5’x7′ (with a 5’x4′ closet) included. The Live Room is 13’x18′. Now, I know that you are not supposed to make a recording studio a perfect square or rectangle. but, since this is being built on our property, the likelihood of someone buying our house years down the road and finding that “odd, slightly off” building in the back useful for anything else, makes me think twice about building it to “professional specifications”. So the sound characteristics of the recording studio will be handled on the inside once construction is complete.

Along with a 3’x6′ Studio window and a 3’x3′ Isolation Booth window (in blue on the drawing) there will also be a laminate flooring area (approx. 6’x8′) that is for the drums. Doing this adds the ability to make the drums more “bright” or more “controlled” by removing the rug from underneath them.

Day 1)

Here is the area behind the existing 24’x33′ garage the morning before construction. Notice how beautiful the yard is prior to construction.  : )

The workers showed up on time and are now removing the grass and digging out the ground to get it ready for the base layer of gravel.

The gravel foundation for the concrete is almost complete.

Gravel is finished and they are ready to lay the rebar and concrete. It is starting to look like something!

The foundation is ready for concrete. It is amazing how quickly these steps get done!

Here is the finished concrete slab. It doesn’t look very big but I assure you that it is the right size.

Day 2)

The framing has begun. I went out about 20 minutes after they arrived and they already have one wall up!

I am starting to get an idea of exactly what the building is going to look like!

In the blink of an eye, the walls are up and the wooden sides are on. This literally took about 15 minutes.

The inside framing is up and I noticed that they had put the window and door of the control room on the wrong side, so they fixed it. It is really important when you are having something built to always be involved. Remember, they are working for you!

The roof frame is up and they are closing it in. They also installed the waterproof layer on the outside of the wood.

Now it looks like an actual building! I cant wait to see what they will do on the next day!

Day 3)

The workers showed up early and are working on getting the siding and metal roof installed.

The siding is almost complete and matches the garage perfectly! I did this by design so that it isn’t obvious that there is a recording studio with a lot of expensive equipment in there. Though I have an alarm system, you can never be too careful.

The installation of the electrical has been completed. After seeing everything in place, I decided to add a few more lights than the original design. One above the console and another in the middle of the Live Room.

Day 4)

The Control Room now has Drywall on 3 sides and a Door! This is all coming together very nicely. I am starting to get a little excited about it being finished!

Day 5)

Drywall is all up and the AC/Heat is in and working great! (its about 36 degrees outside) Tomorrow they are going to start finishing the drywall and preparing to do the ceiling.

Day 6)

The Finishing process has begun. Lots of mud and sanding. Now that all the drywall is up you can definitely see how it is going to look when its completed.

Day 7)

The ceiling is done, the windows are in and the walls are primed. Is amazing how much a little trim makes in the look of everything.

Here is the view from the control room in to the live room and ISO booth.

Here you can see the angle of the control room window. This is done to help with the sound bouncing straight back. The slanted window instead points the sound towards the ground.

Day 8)

The 1st coat of paint has been applied! The colors look a little funny in the picture, but when you see the flooring I picked out, it will all make sense!

From inside the Control Room.

From inside the ISO Booth.

Day 9)

Paint is done! The only things left are a few exterior lights and the flooring!

Day 10)

It’s time for Flooring!

photo 2 photo 1

photo 4 photo 3

With all the flooring in it was time to clean up. I cant wait to start adding all the equipment, etc.

photo 1 photo 2

photo 4 photo 3

Day 11)

Coming Soon!